We understand that sometimes situations arise in which you are no longer able to care for your companion animal. As a last resort, you may surrender your pet to the City of LaGrange Animal Shelter, which is an open admission shelter. The LaGrange – Troup County Humane Society cannot guarantee that a pet will be transferred to our care and does not oversee intakes.
- First and foremost, you should reach out to friends and family to find a temporary or permanent home for your pet. Ideally, place the pet with someone you know.
- Use social media to get the word out. Be sure to ask for references before allowing someone to adopt your pet. Ask all sorts of questions about the care that your pet will receive.
- Search for breed specific rescues
If you are to find a stray animal, please contact the City of LaGrange Animal Shelter at (706) 298-3606 or take found animal to 1390 Orchard Hill Road in LaGrange, Georgia. The LaGrange – Troup County Humane Society can not take in ANY stray animals; therefore, ALL stray animals must be taken directly to City of LaGrange Animal Shelter.
Tips for Successful Introductions
Are you adopting a dog into a family with other pets? Dogs, cats, and other pets may not be instant friends, but there are things you can do to work toward a successful introduction. The LaGrange – Troup County Humane Society along with the City of LaGrange Animal Shelter encourage you to bring existing family members and pets to the animal shelter to meet before you commit to an adoption. If you have questions about making arrangements for a meet and greet, contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call 706-298-3608.
Done properly, an introduction between two dogs, even if they don’t seem to get along at first, can lead to a lifelong, harmonious friendship.
Always practice safety and caution when introducing your dog to one he or she is unfamiliar with. Although some dogs instantly connect with one another, other canine friendships may take a great deal of time and effort to develop.
Follow these guidelines to safely and successfully introduce dogs:
First Things First: Set your dog up for success!
Plan introductions for a time when your dog is calm and relaxed. Exercising your dog with a long walk or an intense game of fetch beforehand is an excellent way to ensure he’ll be calm for the introduction.Familiarize yourself with your dog’s body language, particularly the signs that he’s uncomfortable. These signs can be very subtle, such as: lip-licking, yawning, a tightly closed mouth, avoidance or looking away. Other signs are more obvious, like growling, barking, and lunging.
During introductions, you’ll need to closely monitor your dog’s body language and either slow down or take it back a notch if he or she begins to show signs of stress. Prepare to keep introductions short and sweet to ensure their success. While some dogs may hit it off right away, others will need time to feel comfortable and accept a new friend. Don’t be discouraged or disappointed if your dog needs to take things slowly.
To safely introduce two dogs, both dogs should initially be restrained using a properly fitted collar or harness and leash. Use positive reinforcement to reward good behavior and build a good, positive association with the new dog.
Find Neutral Ground
It’s important to choose a location that’s unfamiliar to both dogs. Naturally territorial, a dog may view a park or backyard that he regularly frequents as part of his territory and may react negatively to a new dog invading his space.Depending on the personalities and comfort levels of each dog, you may be able make a successful introduction on a small stretch of unfamiliar road or, you may need a much larger open space, like a park or large, neutral outdoor space.
The shelter features a newly fenced area away from the kennels where the dogs and family members can meet safely!
Start Simply: Don’t do too much too soon!
With both dogs securely leashed, the dogs should be close enough to be aware each other, while at a far enough distance as to not become provoked or excited by the other’s presence. For some dogs, this first walk can happen as close as 10-feet or less apart, while other dogs may require greater distance.
When both handlers are walking closely enough that the dogs are aware of each other, but far enough apart that they aren’t becoming excited or agitated, reward your dog with a high-value treat and praise when he looks at the other dog. By rewarding your dog for simply looking at his future friend, you’re helping to create a positive association with the new dog.
Repeat this step often, only moving the dogs closer together by short distances at a time and only when both dogs are calm and relaxed. If one or both dogs, at any time, becomes excited, agitated, or shows signs of stress, distract your dog and only return to the introductory walk when both dogs have returned to a calm, stress-free state.
Once both dogs are comfortable being walked within close proximity to one another without incident, take turns walking one dog directly behind the other. Then, switch positions. This gives each dog an opportunity to smell the dog in front of them without becoming overwhelmed. Continue rewarding both dogs for walking nicely without reacting excitedly or negatively to each other.
If this step in the process goes smoothly, you can now walk the dogs side-by-side, as long as both remain calm. If, at any point, one or both dogs becomes excited, stop what you’re doing, allow the dogs to relax, and begin again at the closest successful distance. Continue progressing at a pace both dogs are comfortable with until eventually you can allow them to interact while being closely monitored.
Moving Forward: Bringing your new dog home
Now that both dogs are comfortably interacting in neutral territory and you’ve decided to adopt, it’s time to move the introductions to a more familiar location. Remember, however, that moving to a familiar location may trigger some territorial behavior. If you’re bringing a new dog to an existing dog’s home or backyard, be sure to put away any toys, bedding, or food that may lead to conflict.
Consider keeping newly introduced dogs in the home separated by a sturdy pet gate and monitor how they respond to one another while safely separated before allowing them to romp and play together. And, of course, always handsomely reward good behavior and positive interactions.
Until you are absolutely certain both dogs are comfortable and safe together, never leave two newly introduced dogs unattended together. Instead, separate the dogs in crates or securely in different rooms of the home while you’re away.
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Just like people, dogs communicate using “body language.” Your dog is communicating with his entire body, not just his tail or his voice. If you want to know how he is feeling, you’ll need to learn to read your particular dog’s body language. To get a sense of what your dog is trying to tell you, spend as much time as you can observing your dog and his body posture.
Because each dog is an individual and will express fear, aggression, stress or joy slightly differently, there are no hard and fast rules for interpreting dog body language. Tail wagging, for instance, can indicate several emotions. The important thing is to look at the entire body of the dog. With that said, here are some examples of dog body language and an explanation of what they might mean.
The rear end of the dog is up, while the front end is down. The play bow generally means: “I want to play.”
Contrary to popular belief, tail wagging can mean many things:
- A low-hung wagging tail could mean: “I am scared or unsure.”
- A high, stiff wag can mean: “I am agitated, unsure or scared, but not submissive. I might bite you or your dog.” If the dog’s body is stiff, he is staring, and his ears are up, use caution. Keep the dog out of trouble because he may be about to make a bad decision.
- A loose wag – not really high or really low – normally means: “I am comfortable and friendly.” But you should keep watching the dog’s entire body. Some dogs need a lot of personal space. They will tell you if you get too close.
A dog freezes if she is scared or guarding something, such as food or a toy, or feels cornered. She may bite, so please slow down and pay attention to what she’s trying to convey.
Rolling over generally means the dog is being submissive, but look at the whole dog. If the tail and mouth are loose, the dog is probably comfortable and asking for a belly rub. If the tail is tucked and the lips are stiff, the dog may be scared. Some dogs will solicit attention and then become fearful and bite, so observe the whole dog, looking for comfortable, loose body language.
Ears perked up
When a dog’s ears are forward, he is alert, interested in something.
Tail between the legs
If the dog’s tail is tucked between her legs and her ears are back against her head, she is afraid and uncomfortable about something.
Signs of stress
When a dog is stressed, he often shows displacement behavior, any of a variety of activities that seem inappropriate in the situation. These behaviors occur most often during times of emotional conflict. For example, a dog may start grooming himself when he’s afraid and is faced with the decision to fight or run away. Self-grooming, an odd response to a “flight or fight” situation, is displacement behavior that the dog uses in an attempt to calm himself.
Some typical displacement behaviors:
- Yawning in new or emotional situations
- Panting when it’s not hot
- Lifting a front paw as someone walks toward the dog
- Licking his lips, even though the dog hasn’t been eating or drinking
- Scratching himself when he’s not itchy
- Looking away as a person or another animal walks toward him
- Shaking off after someone handles him or another dog plays too roughly
- Stretching out as though doing a play bow, but not asking for play
- Making a puff (exhale) of breath, sometimes whining at the same time, and looking away or turning away
- Lying down and trying to make whatever is happening stop by not taking part in it
Signs of fear
Be aware that your dog is likely feeling stress along with fear when he/she:
- Starts to drool when she normally doesn’t
- Paces or circles
- Tucks his tail and moves away from something
- Starts to whine
- Sweats through her feet
- Puts his hackles up, his tail is low or high, and his body is still
- Starts to growl, and may start to move away
- Starts to curl her lips or show her teeth (which may be the only warning she gives before biting)
Diffusing the stressful situation
Many people chastise dogs for growling, but that just discourages the dog from attempting to communicate that he’s stressed or fearful. If your dog is growling or is indicating in some other way that he’s stressed, stop whatever you are doing and try to determine what the dog is reacting to. You want to help the dog become more comfortable in the situation or manage the behavior in the future so that a bite to a person or animal doesn’t happen. Often, if we slow down whatever situation caused the fear and start exposing the dog in small amounts at a distance, we can help him to completely overcome his fear. We can also help dogs become more comfortable in general, in order to keep them, and us, safe.
Want to learn more?
If you want to learn more about your dog’s body language, Best Friends animal behavior consultant Sherry Woodard has this to say: Turid Rugaas has a lot of information on dog body language in her book On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. And in her DVD, Calming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You, viewers can see her pointing out various signals dog use to communicate with each other. Other valuable books are Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide to Interpreting the Native Language of the Domestic Dog by Brenda Aloff, Canine Behavior: A Photo Illustrated Handbook by Barbara Handelman, and Dog Language: An Encyclopedia of Canine Behavior by Roger Abrantes.
This article originally appeared on the bestfriends.org website and may be accessed here.